Haun_Larry_-_The_very_efficient_carpenter

Types of Headers

2x2

A. 4x header for 2x4 wall

Use a 6xheader

on a 2x6wall.

Double top plate Top plate Top cripple

4x6 header

Two with plywood2xs

%-in. between

in

c. Built-up header for 2x6 wall (short cripples)

2x6 top cripple

(or two nailed4x together)2xs

4x6

E. 2x header for nonbearing wall

Flat 2x4 header

Doors and windows

The number and sizes of door and window open­ ings needed for a structure can be found by study­ ing the floor or framing plan (see p. 1 6 ) or the door and window schedule (see p. 1 8 ) . This is the kind of work that can usually be done at home. On resi­ dential plans a door size might be shown as 3° 68, which means that the actual door going into this opening will be 36 in. wide (3 ft. 0 in.) and 80 in. tall (6 ft. 8 in.). (Note that many codes now require all passage doors to be at least 32 in. wide.) A standard window size might be shown as a 26 by 4°. The first number always notes the width of the window sash (30 in.), the second number notes the height (48 in.). Carpenters talk about openings in this way: "two­ six by four-oh."

It is important to remember that this "call-out" size, as it is called, refers to the actual size of the door or window and not to the jamb or frame that holds it. Sometimes only the actual size of doors and windows is given on the plans, but framers can still use this information to determine the header length, the rough-opening width (the distance be­ tween trimmers) and the rough-opening height (the distance from the header to the rough window sill or floor).

Headers

Headers can be cut from 4x stock for 2x4 walls (drawing A at left) or 6x stock, when available, for 2x6 walls. Built-up headers, made from two pieces of 2x stock with Yz-in. plywood sandwiched be­ tween and nailed together with 1 6 d nails at 16 in. on center, work well for 2x4 walls (drawing B). Nail a 2Yz-in. ripping between 2x stock for 2x6 walls.

For small openings, like a 3° door in a 2x6 wall, headers can be made from 4x6s placed flat. Alterna­ tively, a 4x header can be placed on edge to provide added strength, with a 2x6 nailed flat on the bot­ tom edge to bring the 4x out to 6x width (drawing C). If you use this flat 2x, cripples will need to be cut lYz in. short. Nail the 2x6 cripples to the 4x and then to the 2x6 top plate. Yet another method allows you to use the standard-length cripple. If the header is

a 4x6, nail on the 6J4-in. cripples. On the bottom edge of the header, nail on a full 2-in. wide ripping to make the 3Yz-in. header SYZ in. wide (drawing D).

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The plans may call for double 2x trimmers under each end of a long header, such as for a garage door. If double trimmers are specified, simply add 3 in. to the header length.

The width and thickness of headers are usually given on the floor or framing plan or in a plan detail showing structural requirements. Header size can also be determined by referring to the local building code or by talking to the architect. A general rule of thumb for determining header sizes for a one-story building is shown in the chart below. Some builders like to standardize the building process by using 4x6s for all openings up to 6 ft. This general rule may not apply if there is an extra load above, such as a second story or a balcony cantilevered beyond the opening. Many codes require at least a 4xl2 or 4xl4 header for a double garage door.

Occasionally the plans will call for two windows to meet in the corner to capture a good view. When this occurs on a 2x4 wall, add 2 in. to the overall length of each header and then miter the outside corner at 45°. The header is lengthened 2 in. because a 4x4 instead of a 2x4 will be used in the corner as the supporting trimmer. The miter can be made with a beamsaw or by cutting both ways with a smaller circular saw. Cut the 4x4 trimmer full length so it can be nailed directly to the bottom plate rather than to the rough sill. Simply cut the rough sills I Yz in. short to allow room for the trimmer to go from header to plate. The same can be done on a 2x6 wall, using a 6x6 corner post.

SIZING HEADERS

Maximum length		Header size
of header
4 ft.		4x4
6 ft.		4x6
8 ft.		4x8
1 0 ft.		4xl0
1 0 ft. to 1 6 f t.		4x12

Header over Corner Windows

Miter joint

Headers

Rough sill

Corner window headers can be mitered tosit on a 4x4 or 6x6 post (trimmer) that extends tothe bottom plate.

Solid-stock headers

In houses using 92Y!-in. studs with a 6-ft. IO-in. header height, all top cripples can often be elimi­ nated by installing 4xl2s for both window and door headers. A 4xl2 is l l Yz in. high. By nailing it hard up against the top plate the header height will be dropped to 6 ft. lOY! in., close enough for a 6-ft. lO-in. opening. Further, nailing headers directly to the top plate strengthens the frame. When a header has to be 2 in. higher for pocket sliders and bifolds, a 4xlO nailed to the top plate works well.

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length and number of cripples needed for every opening on your cutting list. The length of window trimmers, the rough-opening height, is the distance from the header to the rough sill. The length of door trimmers is the distance from the header to the bottom plate.

Cutting headers, cripples and rough sills

On some jobs, once a cutting list has been made it may be cost-effective to have all the headers and cripples precut at the lumberyard. Cripples can be cut from #3 stock, which is a less costly grade of lumber. With gang saws that make multiple cuts, this can be done quickly and inexpensively. You may even find a lumber supplier who will do the cutting for no extra charge just to get your business. If you are doing the cutting yourself, begin by gathering up all the scrap pieces of 2x, 4x and 6x stock. A fast way to cut the headers and cripples is with a 1 6 -in. circular saw (I/beamsaw"). A lO-in. or larger power miter saw (I/chopsaw") or a radial-arm

saw can also be used.

If these tools aren't available, you can use a regu­ lar circular saw. One way to speed up production is to set the cripple stock on edge and shove each piece against a plated wall. Say you need 30 pieces of 2x4 cut at 40 in. for bottom cripples. Make sure that you have 30 pieces lined up along the plate, then mea­ sure up 40 in. on each end piece and snap a chalk-

line across them. Cut along the chalkline and then pick up each piece individually to finish the cut.

As a general rule, cut the longest headers and cripples first. It is a bit embarrassing to cut all the 30 headers first, for example, only to find that the re­ maining stock is too short for an 80 patio window. When the long headers and cripples are cut first, the cut-off ends can be used for the shorter ones.

Work your way down the cutting list, making all the cuts. Windows need both a header and a 2x rough sill. Cut both the same length and at the same time, 2x4 sills for 2x4 walls and 2x6 sills for 2x6 walls, and tack the sill to the header with an 8d nail. When using aluminum-frame windows, the sill can be the same length as the header or it can be cut 3 in. short to allow for full-length precut trimmers. For wooden windows it is easier to use a full-length sill with floating trimmers that are cut during the framing process.

Write on the sills or headers with a piece of keel the door and window sizes and the top and bottom cripple lengths. For example, when you cut a 4x6 door header 41 in. long, write on it 1/3011 along with 1/6%-in. top crips" (cripples). Having the size written on the header makes it easy to locate it on the plates simply by matching its size with what is written on the floor plan. Having the cripple lengths noted on the header makes it easy to scatter the right lengths

Gang-Cutting Cripples

Bottom plate

2x stock for cripples

Cut cripples to length across the chalkline.

Marking Headers and Rough Sills

8d nail

Header

Rough sill

53 in.

Write the window size and

topand bottom cripple stud sizes on the rough sill. Then tack the sill temporarily tothe header so that it can be located properly on the plates with the right cripples.

86 Framing Walls

The preferred tools for cutting headers, cripples, rough sills and trimmers are a 7 6 -in. circular saw (above left), a power miter saw (above right) or a radial-arm saw (left).

Headers and Cripples 87

in the right places. This is especially important on large jobs that have many different sizes of headers and cripples. Remember to keep track of your work by checking off each cut on your cutting list.

Trimmers

Floating trimmers are used with wooden window frames (they are optional with aluminum frames) because they can be plumbed and pulled up tight to the jamb sides, and the window can be secured in place by nailing through the jambs into the trim­ mers. By using full-length (continuous) trimmers for aluminum or vinyl-clad nail-on frames, the win­ dows can be installed more efficiently. Continuous trimmers are precut at 8012 in. and nailed in during the wall-framing process. When it comes time to plumb these trimmers, they are already positioned correctly at the bottom by the rough sill, which has been cut to the exact rough-opening size. All that is usually needed is a little adjustment at the top to bring the trimmers plumb and a couple of toenails into the header to hold them in place. If everything has been cut accurately, the windows can be posi­ tioned in the openings and nailed in place.

Some builders like to precut door trimmers so they can be installed during framing, especially when pre hung doors are being used and trimmers don't have to be in perfect condition. Door trim­ mers for headers placed at 6 ft. 10 in. are cut at 8012 in., which allows 112 in. for the bottom plate.

It is a common practice to cut these trimmers Yl6 in. long to ensure a good, tight fit.

Others prefer to install door trimmers when it is time for them to be set and plumbed, so that they will be in prime condition. This is especially true if they are installing traditional door jambs. Door trimmers that are installed when the wall is framed can warp and twist in the hot sun before they are plumbed and nailed accurately in place.

88 Framing Walls