T. J. Djankova, a. A. Burinskaja, s. A. Zakharenkov technology of finishing textile materials

Methodical manual to laboratory and practical training

St.-Petersburg

2010

УДК 677.21.027

Рекомендовано на заседании кафедры

химической технологии и дизайна текстиля

01.04.2010 г., протокол № 6

Рецензенты:

FOREWORD

The methodical manual to laboratory and practical training includes all traditional sections of discipline “Technology of fin-ishing textile materials”.

A large amount of information concerning both the chemistry and practical application of the chemicals for finishing of textile materials is shown: modern. reliable production ranges for the treatment of fabrics with optical brighteners or antistatic agents, for water- or dirt- and oil-repellent finishes, for dieing from emulsions, thermoprinting and for other finishing processes, but above all for crease-proof and wash-and wear finishing.

The Inclusion of chapters describing the theoretical principles involved will not only assist towards a fuller understanding of the practical methods described, but also will enable students and users of these materials and technologies to expand knowl-edge and to get practical skills in the field of preparation, dye-ing, printing and final furnish of fibrous materials.

Data on technology and the equipment can be used at per-formance of the tasks connected with designing of finishing manufactures.

1. Principal views of textile fibers

The structures of some common fibers are given below. Wool, silk, and cotton are natural fibers. Wool and silk are polypeptides, or polymers made of amino acid units. The acidic and basic amino acids present in these polymers provide many polar groups to which a dye can bind. Cotton, which is pure cellulose, has many hydroxyl groups (–OH) which can form hydrogen bonds to dyes. Rayon (or acetate) is cellulose in which some of the hydroxyl groups have been acetylated. Thus, rayon has fewer hydrogen bonding sites and is more difficult to dye than cotton. The synthetic fibers (nylon, dacron, and orlon) have fewer polar sites than the natural fibers. Nylon, a polyamide, is made by polymerizing a dicarboxylic acid and a diamine. It can be synthesized so that either –NH₃⁺ or –COO^- groups predominate at the ends of the chains. Dacron is a polyester made by polymerizing ethylene glycol and terephthalic acid. Orlon is a polymer of acrylonitrile.

Table 1.1. The structures of some common fibers

Fibers	Structure
Cotton, flax, hydrated cellulose fiber
Rayon (or Cellulose Acetate)
Wool, silk (where R = amino acid residue)
Orlon
Nylon
Dacron