- •Contents at a Glance
- •Contents
- •Hardware Hacks
- •GPS Secrets
- •Hidden Secrets
- •Garmin Secret Screens
- •Hard Resets
- •Soft Resets
- •Warm Resets
- •Full GPS Resets
- •Diagnostic Screens
- •Autolocating
- •Magellan Secret Screens
- •Magellan Meridian Series
- •After a Hard or Soft Reset
- •Summary
- •Cables Demystified
- •The Data Cable
- •Power Cords
- •Combo Cables
- •Combining Cable Types
- •Multi-GPS Cables
- •Multi-Data Cables
- •Multi-Data/Power Cables
- •Multi-Data/Power/GPS Cables
- •Making Your Own Data Cables
- •Materials You Will Need
- •Don’t Want to Buy a Connector?
- •Making Power Cords
- •Power Cord Assembly
- •Testing
- •Precautions
- •GPS/iPAQ Connections
- •Cradle Modification
- •Testing the Connection
- •Making Combo Cables
- •Making Multi Cables
- •Summary
- •Power Hacks
- •GPS Power Needs
- •Alkaline Batteries
- •Lithium Batteries
- •Rechargeable (NiMH) Batteries
- •Battery Do’s and Don’ts
- •Power Hacks
- •Carrying Your Own 12-Volt Power Supply
- •Battery Packs
- •A Different Kind of Battery Pack
- •Alternative Power Supplies
- •Summary
- •Antenna Hacks
- •The GPS Antenna
- •Quad-Helix Orientation
- •Patch Antenna Orientation
- •Best Performance Summary
- •External Antennas
- •Antenna Placement
- •Other Things to Avoid
- •Reradiating Antennas
- •Personal Reradiating Antenna
- •Communal Reradiating Antenna
- •Reradiating Antenna Considerations
- •Setting Up a Reradiating Antenna in a Car
- •Testing the System
- •Making the System Permanent
- •Carrying a GPS Signal via Cable
- •How Much Signal Do You Need?
- •Cable Losses
- •Connector Losses
- •Using a Signal Repeater
- •Building Your Own Mega GPS Antenna
- •Materials
- •Building the Antenna
- •Summary
- •Screen Damage
- •Screen Protectors
- •More Screen Armoring
- •Commercial Protection for GPS and PDAs
- •Mounting GPS
- •Car Mounting
- •Mounting a GPS for Biking, Hiking, and Skiing
- •Making a Personalized Case
- •Summary
- •Software Hacks
- •Hacking the Firmware
- •Firmware
- •Updating Warnings
- •Updating the Firmware
- •Hacking GPS Firmware
- •Bypassing the Garmin eTrex Vista Startup Screen
- •Bypassing the Garmin eTrex Legend Startup Screen
- •Bypassing the Garmin eTrex Venture Startup Screen
- •MeMap Personalization
- •Manual Firmware Editing
- •Magellan GPS Firmware Modifications
- •Recovering from a Failed Firmware Load
- •Garmin
- •Magellan
- •Summary
- •Connection Types
- •Which Connection Is Best?
- •Troubleshooting Problems
- •PC Connection Trouble
- •General PDA Connection Trouble
- •General Bluetooth Connection Trouble
- •Software-Specific Issues
- •Erratic Mouse Pointer after Connecting a GPS
- •Windows XP Problem: Microsoft Ball Point
- •Microsoft MapPoint Troubleshooting
- •USB-to-Serial Converters
- •Summary
- •GPS Data Collection
- •Position, Velocity, Time
- •Waypoints
- •Working with the Data
- •EasyGPS
- •G7toWin
- •Creative Uses of GPS Data
- •Sharing Waypoints
- •Adding GPS Information to Digital Photos
- •Lightning Detector and Plotter
- •Wardriving
- •GPS in Programming
- •Summary
- •Examining the Data
- •NMEA
- •NMEA Sentences
- •NMEA Sentence Structure
- •A Closer Look at NMEA Sentences
- •Examining NMEA Sentences
- •NMEA Checksum
- •SiRF
- •Using NMEA Sentences
- •GPS NMEA LOG
- •GPS Diagnostic
- •RECSIM III
- •Using NMEA
- •GpsGate
- •Recording Actual NMEA Sentences with GpsGate
- •Recording Simulated NMEA Using GpsGate
- •Data Playback
- •Why Bother with NMEA?
- •Ensuring That Your GPS Works
- •Avoiding Data Corruption
- •Summary
- •More Data Tricks
- •Screenshots
- •G7toWin
- •G7toCE
- •Turning Your PC into a High-Precision Atomic Clock
- •Setting Up the Software
- •Setting Up the Hardware
- •Hooking Up Hardware to Software
- •Bringing a GPS Signal Indoors
- •Other Uses for GPS Data
- •Azimuth and Elevation Graphs
- •Surveying
- •Navigation
- •Signal Quality/SNR Window
- •NMEA Command Monitor
- •Experiment for Yourself
- •Summary
- •Playtime
- •Hacking Geocaching
- •GPS Accuracy
- •The Birth of Geocaching
- •Geocaching Made Simple
- •What Is Geocaching?
- •Geocaching from Beginning to End
- •The Final 20 Yards
- •Geocaching Hacks
- •Go Paper-free
- •Plan Before You Leave
- •Sort Out Cabling
- •Power for the Trip
- •Better Antennas
- •Protecting the GPS
- •Summary
- •GPS Games
- •The Dawn of GPS Games
- •Points of Confluence
- •Benchmarking/Trigpointing
- •GPS Drawing
- •Hide-and-Seek
- •Foxhunt
- •Other Games
- •Summary
- •GPS Primer
- •The GPS Network
- •How GPS Works
- •GPS Signal Errors
- •Summary
- •Glossary
- •Index
Chapter 4 — Antenna Hacks 77
Carrying a GPS Signal via Cable
You’ve already learned that cables that are too long or have unnecessary connectors cause signal loss — but how much signal loss? The following sections outline some of the variables that affect the answer to this question.
How Much Signal Do You Need?
Before we look at the losses, let’s look at how much signal you need to get to your GPS in order for it to work.
For a high-gain (high-sensitivity) antenna (roughly 35 dB), most receivers can function properly with 12 dB +/- 2 dB attenuation (signal loss) from the antenna to the receiver input.
For a lower-gain (low-sensitivity) antenna (those in the 26 dB region), most receivers can function normally with 6 dB +/- 2 dB attenuation from the antenna to the receiver input.
Cable Losses
There is significant signal loss through a cable. What we are interested in is the signal loss at 1575.2 MHz. The following list of four different cable types shows the average signal loss you’ll encounter (derived from data on www.belden.com):
RG8 (Belden 9913F), 100ft: 7.5 dB attenuation
RG213 (Belden 8267), 100ft: 12.0 dB attenuation
RG142 (Belden 84142), 10ft: 2.0 dB attenuation
RG58 (Belden 8919), 10ft: 2.7 dB attenuation
Therefore, putting the preceding information into context, the following table shows the maximum length of cable that you should be able to use.
Cable |
Max Length Using High-Gain |
Max Length Using Low-Gain |
|
Antenna (feet) |
Antenna (feet) |
|
|
|
RG8 |
150 |
80 |
|
|
|
RG213 |
100 |
50 |
|
|
|
RG142 |
60 |
30 |
|
|
|
RG58 |
40 |
20 |
|
|
|
The better quality cable (generally, “more expensive”) you use, the lower the attenuation and the less the signal loss. However, higher-quality cables cost more. If you want less attenuation over greater distances, the only option available to you is to spend the money.
You can also find rigid and semi-rigid cables that have better specification, but these will undoubtedly cost extra and the gains you get aren’t going to be massive.
78 Part I — Hardware Hacks
For more information on Belden cable, check out the Belden website at http://bwccat. belden.com/ecat/jsp/index.jsp.
Many people don’t realize that lower-loss cable usually means thicker cable. The thicker the cable, the harder it is to get it around bends.
Connector Losses
It’s not just the cables that attenuate; the connectors do too. Generally, each connector adds about 1.5 dB of signal loss into the system. However, if you are using cable with 75-ohm resistance on a 50-ohm system (these figures will be marked on most cables that you use, while connectors are sold with a particular resistance value stated), then this figure goes up to 3 dB. This combination is therefore considered to be a poor match and not recommended for GPS.
One example of a 75-ohm cable from Belden is the RG59.
Adding a connector at each end of the cable means you are looking at a minimum of 3 dB attenuation of signal, which alters the maximum cable lengths that you can have. Depending on whether your cable/antenna setup has one connector or two, you can figure this value into your calculations directly, as shown in the following table.
Cable (with connectors) |
Max Length Using |
Max Length Using |
|
High-Gain Antenna |
Low-Gain Antenna |
|
|
|
RG8 |
110 |
45 |
|
|
|
RG213 |
75 |
35 |
|
|
|
RG142 |
40 |
15 |
|
|
|
RG58 |
30 |
<10 |
|
|
|
Splitters don’t normally add to the total attenuation in the system because they generally contain signal boosters to compensate.
As you can see, even with the best cable, 100 feet (33 meters) is probably the best you can do if you want to ensure that you get a useable signal.
You can find numerous types of cable out there (many more than I have listed), so you might find the following website useful:
www.timesmicrowave.com/cgi-bin/calculate.pl
This site enables you to work out attenuation for a variety of cables at a variety of lengths and frequencies quickly and easily.