- •Contents at a Glance
- •Contents
- •Hardware Hacks
- •GPS Secrets
- •Hidden Secrets
- •Garmin Secret Screens
- •Hard Resets
- •Soft Resets
- •Warm Resets
- •Full GPS Resets
- •Diagnostic Screens
- •Autolocating
- •Magellan Secret Screens
- •Magellan Meridian Series
- •After a Hard or Soft Reset
- •Summary
- •Cables Demystified
- •The Data Cable
- •Power Cords
- •Combo Cables
- •Combining Cable Types
- •Multi-GPS Cables
- •Multi-Data Cables
- •Multi-Data/Power Cables
- •Multi-Data/Power/GPS Cables
- •Making Your Own Data Cables
- •Materials You Will Need
- •Don’t Want to Buy a Connector?
- •Making Power Cords
- •Power Cord Assembly
- •Testing
- •Precautions
- •GPS/iPAQ Connections
- •Cradle Modification
- •Testing the Connection
- •Making Combo Cables
- •Making Multi Cables
- •Summary
- •Power Hacks
- •GPS Power Needs
- •Alkaline Batteries
- •Lithium Batteries
- •Rechargeable (NiMH) Batteries
- •Battery Do’s and Don’ts
- •Power Hacks
- •Carrying Your Own 12-Volt Power Supply
- •Battery Packs
- •A Different Kind of Battery Pack
- •Alternative Power Supplies
- •Summary
- •Antenna Hacks
- •The GPS Antenna
- •Quad-Helix Orientation
- •Patch Antenna Orientation
- •Best Performance Summary
- •External Antennas
- •Antenna Placement
- •Other Things to Avoid
- •Reradiating Antennas
- •Personal Reradiating Antenna
- •Communal Reradiating Antenna
- •Reradiating Antenna Considerations
- •Setting Up a Reradiating Antenna in a Car
- •Testing the System
- •Making the System Permanent
- •Carrying a GPS Signal via Cable
- •How Much Signal Do You Need?
- •Cable Losses
- •Connector Losses
- •Using a Signal Repeater
- •Building Your Own Mega GPS Antenna
- •Materials
- •Building the Antenna
- •Summary
- •Screen Damage
- •Screen Protectors
- •More Screen Armoring
- •Commercial Protection for GPS and PDAs
- •Mounting GPS
- •Car Mounting
- •Mounting a GPS for Biking, Hiking, and Skiing
- •Making a Personalized Case
- •Summary
- •Software Hacks
- •Hacking the Firmware
- •Firmware
- •Updating Warnings
- •Updating the Firmware
- •Hacking GPS Firmware
- •Bypassing the Garmin eTrex Vista Startup Screen
- •Bypassing the Garmin eTrex Legend Startup Screen
- •Bypassing the Garmin eTrex Venture Startup Screen
- •MeMap Personalization
- •Manual Firmware Editing
- •Magellan GPS Firmware Modifications
- •Recovering from a Failed Firmware Load
- •Garmin
- •Magellan
- •Summary
- •Connection Types
- •Which Connection Is Best?
- •Troubleshooting Problems
- •PC Connection Trouble
- •General PDA Connection Trouble
- •General Bluetooth Connection Trouble
- •Software-Specific Issues
- •Erratic Mouse Pointer after Connecting a GPS
- •Windows XP Problem: Microsoft Ball Point
- •Microsoft MapPoint Troubleshooting
- •USB-to-Serial Converters
- •Summary
- •GPS Data Collection
- •Position, Velocity, Time
- •Waypoints
- •Working with the Data
- •EasyGPS
- •G7toWin
- •Creative Uses of GPS Data
- •Sharing Waypoints
- •Adding GPS Information to Digital Photos
- •Lightning Detector and Plotter
- •Wardriving
- •GPS in Programming
- •Summary
- •Examining the Data
- •NMEA
- •NMEA Sentences
- •NMEA Sentence Structure
- •A Closer Look at NMEA Sentences
- •Examining NMEA Sentences
- •NMEA Checksum
- •SiRF
- •Using NMEA Sentences
- •GPS NMEA LOG
- •GPS Diagnostic
- •RECSIM III
- •Using NMEA
- •GpsGate
- •Recording Actual NMEA Sentences with GpsGate
- •Recording Simulated NMEA Using GpsGate
- •Data Playback
- •Why Bother with NMEA?
- •Ensuring That Your GPS Works
- •Avoiding Data Corruption
- •Summary
- •More Data Tricks
- •Screenshots
- •G7toWin
- •G7toCE
- •Turning Your PC into a High-Precision Atomic Clock
- •Setting Up the Software
- •Setting Up the Hardware
- •Hooking Up Hardware to Software
- •Bringing a GPS Signal Indoors
- •Other Uses for GPS Data
- •Azimuth and Elevation Graphs
- •Surveying
- •Navigation
- •Signal Quality/SNR Window
- •NMEA Command Monitor
- •Experiment for Yourself
- •Summary
- •Playtime
- •Hacking Geocaching
- •GPS Accuracy
- •The Birth of Geocaching
- •Geocaching Made Simple
- •What Is Geocaching?
- •Geocaching from Beginning to End
- •The Final 20 Yards
- •Geocaching Hacks
- •Go Paper-free
- •Plan Before You Leave
- •Sort Out Cabling
- •Power for the Trip
- •Better Antennas
- •Protecting the GPS
- •Summary
- •GPS Games
- •The Dawn of GPS Games
- •Points of Confluence
- •Benchmarking/Trigpointing
- •GPS Drawing
- •Hide-and-Seek
- •Foxhunt
- •Other Games
- •Summary
- •GPS Primer
- •The GPS Network
- •How GPS Works
- •GPS Signal Errors
- •Summary
- •Glossary
- •Index
108 Part I — Hardware Hacks
FIGURE 5-29: These removable clear windows enable you to use the infrared connection while the PDA is in the case. They can also be removed and replaced with extension ports (for large expansion cards) or cable input ports.
Mounting GPS
When you are on the move, it’s good to have your GPS fixed to something so that it’s not loose. A loose GPS in the car or while walking puts the GPS at risk as well as any devices attached to it via cables.
Car Mounting
An unsecured GPS in a car is also a bad idea because the movements can put stress on cables, connections, and the device itself. In an accident, an unsecured GPS could be turned into a lethal missile, which makes securing it doubly important.
A good, yet simple way to affix a GPS is to use a commercial mount. Some of the best mounts that I have found are made by RAM. Not only do they offer a great range of mounts for a variety of devices, but they are also very versatile because the same mount can be used for a variety
Chapter 5 — Protecting and Mounting Your GPS 109
of applications (attached to a bike clamp, suction cup, or special car mount). You have many options for securing the GPS in the car. One of the easiest ways to attach the GPS is via a RAM mount that has a suction cup attached to it (see Figure 5-30). These suction cups are extremely powerful and don’t require the use of any adhesives or the drilling of any holes.
FIGURE 5-30: The RAM mount suction cup
RAM mounts are great because the fitting is a swivel mount and can be adjusted so that the GPS is oriented correctly for your seating position. This is possible through the use of two ball joints on the swivel arm (see Figure 5-31).
You can also connect a cable to the GPS while it is in the cradle. Figure 5-32 shows an eTrex in a RAM mount and attached to a cable.
Choose a good spot to mount your GPS. You want a position that enables you to see the GPS but that doesn’t obscure your vision while driving. Experiment with different locations until you find one you like. If you are using cables to antennas or power supplies, use cable ties to keep these under control. Wherever you choose, avoid areas on your dashboard that incorporate an air bag.
110 Part I — Hardware Hacks
FIGURE 5-31: RAM mount swivel arm
FIGURE 5-32: This cradle enables you to attach a cable connector to the GPS, an option not available with all mounts.
Chapter 5 — Protecting and Mounting Your GPS 111
For more details on RAM mounts visit www.ram-mount.com.
RAM isn’t the only maker of GPS mounts — most GPS manufacturers also make mounts for their GPS receivers. Your user manual will likely list the accessories that match your GPS receiver.
Other alternatives include the use of Velcro strips and beanbags to hold the GPS — personally, I don’t find that these offer enough in the way of support. I prefer a more robust way to hold the receiver in place.
Mounting a GPS for Biking, Hiking, and Skiing
You can also mount a GPS on your bike if you purchase a bike RAM mount. These are easy to fit. To mount a GPS onto a ski-pole or hiking stick, all you need is a RAM mount that is designed to be attached to a bike. Figure 5-33 shows such a RAM mount.
FIGURE 5-33: RAM mount bike clip
112 Part I — Hardware Hacks
The U-shaped bolt that is designed to enable the RAM mount to be attached to a bike frame or the handlebars is also ideal for the diameters of most walking sticks, both wooden and metal. Figure 5-34 shows the mount attached to an aluminum ski pole.
FIGURE 5-34: Bike mount attached to a ski pole
Be careful not to tighten the nuts on the U-bolts too much, as that could crush the metal and damage the walking stick. This is especially true if the hiking stick is telescopic.
To ensure that the U-bolt is secure without having to tighten it too much, put a few layers of electrical tape underneath the bolt before securing it, as shown in Figure 5-35. This enables you to tighten the clip against the tape, putting less stress and pressure on the metal itself.
Never drill into a ski pole or hiking stick to attach anything, as this will dramatically weaken it and could cause you great harm should it break in use.