- •T. J. Djankova, a. A. Burinskaja, s. A. Zakharenkov technology of finishing textile materials
- •1. Principal views of textile fibers
- •2. Preparation of cellulose materials for dyeing and printing
- •2.1. Bleaching of cotton textiles
- •2.2. Mercerization
- •3. Application of optical bleaches
- •3.1. Optical bleaching substances
- •3.2. Test on presence of an optical bleach
- •4. Dyeing
- •4.1. Technical classification of dyes
- •4.3. Mordant dyes
- •4.4. Acid metalline dyes
- •The abovementioned recipe and procedure of dyeing are standart and can be changed and specified according to type of the equipment and also kind of coloring material.
- •4.5. Direct dyes Direct dyes may be used for dyeing cotton and other cellulose fibers. Direct dyes simple in application, are suitable for dyeing on any equipment, well combined with each other.
- •4.6. Reactive dyes
- •4.6.1. Cellulose dyeing. Batch methods of dyeing
- •Table 4.1. Dyes Bath Composition and Dyeing Conditions
- •4.6.2. Continuous dyeing
- •4.7. Cationic dyes
- •Dyeing by fast-fixing dyes
- •Dyeing of newly-formed braid
- •4.8. Disperse dyes
- •4.9. Vat dyes
- •Indigo-molecular structure Vat Yellow-molecular structure
- •Dye. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .3 % from weight of a fiber
- •4.10. Sulfur dyes
- •4.11. Azo dyes synthesized in the fiber
- •5. Printing
- •5.1. Reactive dyes printing
- •5.2. Pigments printing
- •5.3. Thermoprinting of fibrous materials
- •6. Final finishing
- •6.1. Giving to fabrics of properties of water pushing away
- •6. 2. Giving to textile cloths of oil- hidrofobization
- •6.3. Giving to fabrics of fireproof properties
- •6.4. Giving to fabrics of anti-shrinkage chemical properties, form-stable finishing
- •Application Rules
- •7. Dyeing from Emulsions
- •7.1 Auxiliaries solvents
- •7.2 Emulsifiers
- •7.3 Dyeing with water-soluble dyestuffs.
- •7.4. Basic dyeable synthetic fibers
- •7.5. Physic-chemical fundamentals of emulsion technique
- •Influence of the temperature on the stability of an emulsion
- •Influence of additives on the stability of an emulsion
- •The optical properties of a water/perchloroethylene emulsion
- •Vapour pressure of a water/perchloroethylene emulsion
- •7.6 Equipment for dyeing from organic solvents
- •8. Equipment for dyeing and finishing factories.
- •8.1. Machine for washing, bleaching and dyeing “colorado”
- •8.2. Мachine «petra» f. Biancalani For obtaining effects of “worked surface”
- •8.3. High temperature machine mcs comby jigger
- •8.4. Hydraulic drying cylinder machines “jigger jht” by exclusivas tepp s.A. (Spain)
- •8.5. Vertical high-temperature high-pressure yarn dyeing plant
- •8.6. Flow line for combined bleaching and dyeing of fabrics лкб-140
- •Specification
- •8.7. Rapidstretch
- •8.8. Technodye rapid system Main features.
- •8.9. Superflux ne
- •Finally
- •8.7. Rapidstretch 84
2. Preparation of cellulose materials for dyeing and printing
Preparation is a set of operations to which the textile material before dyeing and printing is exposed. The size and type of bleaching depends on the type of fabric, the production required and whether the fabric is to be dyed or finished white. For cotton materials preparation consists of following stages: desizing, alkaline clearing (sliver scouring), mercerizing, bleaching. Depending on assortment of fabrics and a way of preparation the part of these stages can be excluded, some operations are combined. The basic part of natural cellulose fibers is cellulose (-C6H10O5-)n. Besides, fibers contain impurity which influence technological processes of processing. The structure of cotton and linen fibers is lower resulted.
Table 1.2. natural impurity of cotton and flax, %
-
Name
cotton
flax
Cellulose
94 - 96
74 - 76
Wax
0,5-0,6
2,7
Nitrogenous
0,9-1,2
1,9-2,1
Pectinaceous
1,2
4,9-5,0
Mineral
1-1,3
1,3
Organic acids
0,8
-
lignin
-
4,8
Sugar
0,3
-
painting pigment
traces
traces
not investigated part
0,3-1,3
9,4-11,9
All these impurity inform a material rigidity, bad moistening, yellow-grey color, etc. As a result dye hardly gets into textiles and is badly fixed on a fiber. The basic indicators characterised quality of preparation: capillarness, hydrophility, moistening, whiteness.
Capillarness normally prepared cotton fabric makes about 125 mm for 30 minutes, and whiteness degree approximately 84 %.
Alkaline clearing it is considered the most important operation which purpose -to give to a material capillaries and moistening. Thus there is a maximum removal of all natural impurity of a cellulose fiber (clap) such, as: pectinaceous, nitrogenous, wax. Presence wax causes low hydrophility a severe fiber. The basic reagent destroying impurity, is NaOH. Except NaOH into a solution for alkaline clearing enter, for example, Na2Si03 which affinity products of destruction of natural impurity of a clap and iron oxides, interfering their with return sorption on a fiber. Introduction of surface-active substances promotes reconducting wax impurity in emulsion. The weak reducer is entered into a solution also, for example, NaHSО3, which prevents degradation of cellulose fiber air oxygen, connecting oxygen:
2NaHS03 + 02 → 2 NaHS04.
Bleaching it is carried out basically by oxidizers which translate a natural painting pigment in the colorless soluble connections deleted by washing. Now more than 80 % of textiles bleach hydrogen peroxide H2O2. Use of chlorine-containing bleaches is complicated because of environmental problems arising thus, including because of danger of formation toxic dioxines.