- •T. J. Djankova, a. A. Burinskaja, s. A. Zakharenkov technology of finishing textile materials
- •1. Principal views of textile fibers
- •2. Preparation of cellulose materials for dyeing and printing
- •2.1. Bleaching of cotton textiles
- •2.2. Mercerization
- •3. Application of optical bleaches
- •3.1. Optical bleaching substances
- •3.2. Test on presence of an optical bleach
- •4. Dyeing
- •4.1. Technical classification of dyes
- •4.3. Mordant dyes
- •4.4. Acid metalline dyes
- •The abovementioned recipe and procedure of dyeing are standart and can be changed and specified according to type of the equipment and also kind of coloring material.
- •4.5. Direct dyes Direct dyes may be used for dyeing cotton and other cellulose fibers. Direct dyes simple in application, are suitable for dyeing on any equipment, well combined with each other.
- •4.6. Reactive dyes
- •4.6.1. Cellulose dyeing. Batch methods of dyeing
- •Table 4.1. Dyes Bath Composition and Dyeing Conditions
- •4.6.2. Continuous dyeing
- •4.7. Cationic dyes
- •Dyeing by fast-fixing dyes
- •Dyeing of newly-formed braid
- •4.8. Disperse dyes
- •4.9. Vat dyes
- •Indigo-molecular structure Vat Yellow-molecular structure
- •Dye. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .3 % from weight of a fiber
- •4.10. Sulfur dyes
- •4.11. Azo dyes synthesized in the fiber
- •5. Printing
- •5.1. Reactive dyes printing
- •5.2. Pigments printing
- •5.3. Thermoprinting of fibrous materials
- •6. Final finishing
- •6.1. Giving to fabrics of properties of water pushing away
- •6. 2. Giving to textile cloths of oil- hidrofobization
- •6.3. Giving to fabrics of fireproof properties
- •6.4. Giving to fabrics of anti-shrinkage chemical properties, form-stable finishing
- •Application Rules
- •7. Dyeing from Emulsions
- •7.1 Auxiliaries solvents
- •7.2 Emulsifiers
- •7.3 Dyeing with water-soluble dyestuffs.
- •7.4. Basic dyeable synthetic fibers
- •7.5. Physic-chemical fundamentals of emulsion technique
- •Influence of the temperature on the stability of an emulsion
- •Influence of additives on the stability of an emulsion
- •The optical properties of a water/perchloroethylene emulsion
- •Vapour pressure of a water/perchloroethylene emulsion
- •7.6 Equipment for dyeing from organic solvents
- •8. Equipment for dyeing and finishing factories.
- •8.1. Machine for washing, bleaching and dyeing “colorado”
- •8.2. Мachine «petra» f. Biancalani For obtaining effects of “worked surface”
- •8.3. High temperature machine mcs comby jigger
- •8.4. Hydraulic drying cylinder machines “jigger jht” by exclusivas tepp s.A. (Spain)
- •8.5. Vertical high-temperature high-pressure yarn dyeing plant
- •8.6. Flow line for combined bleaching and dyeing of fabrics лкб-140
- •Specification
- •8.7. Rapidstretch
- •8.8. Technodye rapid system Main features.
- •8.9. Superflux ne
- •Finally
- •8.7. Rapidstretch 84
8.2. Мachine «petra» f. Biancalani For obtaining effects of “worked surface”
Fig. 8.4. Machine «PETRA» (f. “Biancalani”)
Machine «PETRA» originated at the beginning of the 1990s in order to respond to the increasing market demand for "new hands" and "new surface effects" in a wide range of fabrics. The primary objective was to obtain a worked surface that was different from those already obtainable using traditional work processes. In fact, the peculiarity of the PETRA* work process is that of smoothing the fiber, cleaning them of their natural down, leaving a fiber density that can be compared with that of an enzyme-type treatment: an extremely low and dense pile, a fresh and sustained hand. The smoothing bars utilize a very efficient and resistant abrasive material, and their action produces an effect of regular micro-cleaning over the entire surface without attacking the quality of the fiber. Treatments on PETRA* provide for the use of water which, by interposing itself between the fiber and the smoothing unit, delicately cleans the surface of the fabric. This work process also has the objective of preparing the surface of the fabric for the subsequent processes, such as stone-washing, enzyme treatment, and so forth. This process differs from wet systems at present on the market for its homogeneity of effect, absence of selvage center, absence of peeling and, in particular, for the permanence of the effect before and after the dyeing.
Advantages of the machine are
- the action of PETRA* acts delicately on the surface of the fibers, leaving their resistance properties intact; The bars work in water, and their oscillating action in contact with the water and the fabric constitutes the premise for continuous self-cleaning;
- the oscillating action of the abrasive bars produces a smoothing and a typical velvet hand without attacking the qualities of the fibers and without the aid of chemical products or other additives. PETRA* constitutes an original and less costly mechanical alternative to the use of enzymes, both in micro-fibrillation prior to dyeing and also during decolouration after dyeing;
- the incidence of the abrasive bars is absolutely unique for applications on denim, cotton, cellulosic fabrics and linen, of which it brings out the qualities of freshness and the best of the construction features;
- particularly indicated for treatments on denim, in which a decoloration applied previously to that in confection (pre-stone washing) reduces the successive garment treatment to a minimum, guaranteeing a greater resistance of the fabric and drastically reducing lower qualities;
- on dyed fabrics with a relief pattern, it is possible to obtain a three-dimensional effect by means of an abrasive action that is more incident on the parts in relief, which produces an absolutely original decoloration;
- the particular features of fixing industrial diamond dust on the bars confers a long life to the surface which is much greater than that of any other machine to be found on the market, practically no maintenance operations, and very limited costs of re-application, without the need for replacing the bars.
Fig. 8.5. Мachine «PETRA» (f. “Biancalani”)
SMOOTHING MODULE. It consists of six bars with an abrasive surface which is obtained by means of a special electrolytic process that makes it possible to apply a coating of synthetic diamond dust very close to the structure of the bars. This solution guarantees a long duration of the surface and less maintenance, and makes it possible to obtain a decolorisation similar to the one produced by using pumice (stone-washed) - without, however, releasing pollutant dust and sand.
OSCILLATION. The bars move with a high-frequency oscillating movement which produces an action and a counter-action at the same time. From this originates the micro-fibrillation, techno-polishing and decolourisation that do not damage the resistance of the fibers in any way at all.
CONTROL OF TENSIONS. The in-let fabric is stretched out by means of a combined braking, widening and centering system. The tensioning necessary for correctly carrying out the smoothing operation is guaranteed, in modular manner, by a pneumatic dancing roller.
Table 8.2. Technical characteristics of Мachine «PETRA»
Treatment |
continuous smoothing of open-width fabric |
Maximum work height |
180 cm |
Entry of the fabric |
folding inlet or roller with braking device |
Exit of the fabric |
in a roll |
Treatment speed |
2-25 m/min |
Tensioning of the fabric |
10-160 kg |
Number of smoothing bars |
6 |
Oscillating speed of the bars |
700 cycles/min |
Capacity of the impregnation tanks |
250 L |
Maximum installed electrical power |
26 kW |
Average temporary electrical consumption |
18 Kw |
Maximum temporary consumption of water |
250 L/min |
Average continuous consumption of water |
30-100 L/min |
Maximum temporary consumption of compressed air. |
250 N/min |
Water inlet pressure |
1-4 bar |
Compressed air inlet pressure |
6-10 bar |
Maximum width |
3860 mm |
Maximum length |
6600 mm |
Maximum height |
3110 mm |
Weight |
8000 Kg |
WATER. In addition to exercising a lubricating action during the phase of contact between bars and fabric, thus contributing to the delicacy of action, water makes possible the self-cleaning of the bars during the working phase, as well as the cooling of the same.
RECIRCULATION. During the treatments that permit it, it is possible to activate a water re-circulating system in order to economize on water consumption. The water from the line is introduced only in the last vat in order to guarantee a perfect cleaning of the out-going fabric. From the last vat the water overflow in the first vat, where is re-circulated so as to be sent to the sprayers of the smoothing bars.
MACHINE OPERATIONS AND CONTROL “PETRA” is controlled completely by means of a PLC and is interfaced with a simple and immediate control display. The programming of the speed and tensioning of the fabric makes possible a maximum personalizing of the treatments and their perfect standardization and reproducibility in time. The use of an inverter guarantees an optimal exploitation of the various driven motor. An on-line help system also makes possible a constant check of the machine's running conditions and the immediate detection of the intervention area. The use of an inverter guarantees an optimal exploitation of the various driven motor. An on-line help system also makes possible a constant check of the machine's running conditions and the immediate detection of the intervention area.