4.Read text a. Men’s formal wear

The quintessence of uniform elegance in men’s wear is that the men’s garments are nearly unchanging, and they are described as “formal.” The exact opposite of “casual” clothes, men’s formal garments are as curiously elevating and ennobling as they are utilitarian and leveling. This might seem a contradiction in terms at first, but one has only to think of a “black-tie” event to realize that at least en masse, the uniform nature of the clothes—coded and easily recognizable globally—places all men in the same category, much like a uniform does for the army, navy,

or air force. But like the armed forces, which have panoplies of different ranks, a tangible difference in provenance can be evinced in evening or formal clothes.

- Is this suit custom-made?

- Is that rented?

- Is that a hand-me-down?

- Is this a lucky find in a vintage market?

A black-tie event is a sea of uniforms—all men, although from different ranks in society, at least visually and superficially are united by convention. Formal wear not only functions as a social leveling device for the men at a gathering, but it also provides uniform clothes for the female guests who are of course, not restricted to the black color for their gowns. Formal clothes have an air of assured authority and confidence about them and are generally resistant to fashion, although of course some designers attempt to play with their favorite elements from collection to collection. But customers always seem to revert to the history, tradition, and timeless style of the unshakable classics.

The most recognizable formal wear costume is the black-tie—in the United States, usually referred to as the tuxedo and frequently shortened to “tux.” In 1896, a mischievous, iconoclastic dandy, Griswold Lorillard, wore a shorter, black formal jacket (without tails) to a country club in Tuxedo Park, New York—and the name was established. The jacket part of the black-tie ensemble is sometimes referred to as a “dinner jacket,” though that appellation is too limiting to encompass all social functions. Essentially, the terms all refer to the same costume, though some contend that the classic tuxedo jacket must have a shawl collar rather than peaked lapels, and many would permit no color other than black (some will allow cream). But these distinctions have more to do with the wearer’s upbringing and taste as opposed to the outfit itself.

There are generally five styles to choose from: single breasted, double breasted, peaked lapels (usually double breasted) and single or double breasted shawl collared. Basically, it is a black suit but ennobled by a silk facing on the lapels, the better to provide a suggestion of luxury and attention to detail. And black-tie is, and should only ever be, black—or perhaps midnight blue, which the late royal couturier Sir Hardy Amies always made it look blacker than black itself, under artificial light.

The shirt is always white. It can be made in anything from the finest zephyr cotton to polyester—but it must always be white. Pearl buttons or studs are the norm and a wing collar a matter of

choice and taste, although if one is sported it should be buttoned on or studded through— not ready-made. And the bow tie is not considered one if it is not hand-tied. While the basic elements of formal wear are conveniently precise, the wearer is able to exert his individuality

through the sporting of discreet (or not so discreet) items of jewelry—these for the most part being concealed by the jacket cuff in the form of links or by the jacket itself if a spirited watch chain or fob is attached to a waistcoat.